Saturday, August 20, 2016
Burda Style 08-2016-128A Panel Pencil Skirt
I am in love with this skirt. This is one of my favorite patterns I've ever made from Burda and it's likely to end up a TNT pattern. This is skirt 128 from the August issue.
I knew the moment I saw this picture that I would be making this. I love those section seams! And even though they are a little unusual, the skirt itself is very basic and versatile.
Now granted, mine looks a little different. For one thing, it's orange, and my fabric isn't quite so nice- it wrinkled a bit (the photos were taken at the end of an almost 12 hour workday.) But the fit and the lines are great and I intend to make this again. And again.
My fabric is some sort of jacquard weave suiting with a tiny bit of stretch, and most likely a fair amount of polyester. I'm surprised it wrinkled as much as it did, but then again, it's not the worst I've encountered and I did wear the skirt all day, sitting at a desk for most of it, so some lap wrinkles are to be expected.
My favorite thing about this pattern is, of course, the curved section seams in the front. Burda calls them "wandering panel seams." They weren't too hard to sew, but added just enough of a challenge to make it interesting. Okay, I wouldn't even call them a challenge, just a detail that you need to take your time on. I stay stitched all of the convex curves then clipped and pinned carefully. I like to sew with my clipped edge on top so I sewed part of the seam, cut the thread and then flipped it over to finish the seam. I think they turned out pretty good.
I love the princess seams in the back too. They are flattering and make fitting so easy...
The pattern is offered in sizes 34 to 42. I traced a 42 and "graded up" to a 44 by just adding extra to the side seam allowances. That took care of the hip circumference but I ended up having to take in the waist at the side seams and at the back section seams so it's now approximately a 40.5 at the waist.
This skirt is drafted long. I added 1 3/4" for a hem allowance and then ended up taking 2.5" to get it to hit just below the knee. I should have made my walking slit a little longer, something I will probably go back and correct.
The waistband for this view is a straight strip that you cut to measurements. It finishes narrow and is added before the zip (I used an invisible one) so that it goes all the way to the top and you don't need a button or hook. The band sits at the natural waist which is my preference both for comfort and for looks.
I would really like to make the second view offered in the magazine with the wider, shaped waistband and the curved hem:
I will be on the lookout for some nicer fabric because I'd love to have a couple more of these.
I'm really pleased with the Burda August issue. There are so many things in it that I want to make. I don't know what to choose next!