Monday, January 13, 2014

Burda Style 01-2014-108

This is the first project started and finished in 2014, Burda Style 01-2014-108, the Waterfall Top.

This is what it looked like in the magazine.  Graceful, with elegant draping and form fitting at the waist and hips:

I'd love to see the back because I suspect there are some serious pins and clips back there.
Because there is no way this top is going to fit like it does in the photo with a line drawing like this:

I knew that going in, and yet I chose to go ahead and try this pattern.  And I was right.  It did not fit like the photo.

This is, however, a very cool, interesting pattern to sew.  It only has two pattern pieces to trace- the back pieces which are joined with a center back seam and then folded to the front to form the dolman sleeves, and the front which is basically a square.  The bottom band is just a rectangle that you cut to the dimensions given in the magazine.  All the seams are straight, so it is simple, fast, and easy to sew.

I used a jacquard fabric just like the magazine.  I bought this silvery floral print a few years ago at Hancock's.  I figured it was time to use it.

The problem with this pattern is that there is no waist shaping at all.  So the figure skimming look in the model photo is a complete illusion.  Unless you want to walk around with clothes pins clipped to your back!  I sort of solved the problem by adding elastic to the waist.  Now the top snugs up to my waist more like the photo... but not quite.

Another problem with this pattern is that it runs huge.  I cut a 42 front and back and used the 44 measurements for the bottom band (plus 1 extra inch to make sure I had enough ease to wear this over jeans.)  It swallows me.  There is just way more fabric than there appears to be in the model photo.  I also have a bit less drape in front because I sewed up my shoulder seams an extra inch on each side to cover my bra straps.

And even though I used the same type of fabric that the pattern called for, I think this fabric has a little bit too much body for this design.  The pictures make it look even worse.  It was very windy out and the breeze just picked up this fabric and inflated it like a balloon.  That combined with the shiny finish just looks awful.

I really think this pattern is screaming to be made up in a knit... with either a shaped band or at least a band cut with negative ease so that it fits the hips and waist better.  A knit would also flow better and give it more of that "waterfall" look.

I'm going to have to call this my first wadder for 2014 (might as well get it out of the way early, right?)  I just can't see myself wearing this.  I enjoyed the process of putting it together, but the finished product just isn't flattering.  Maybe someone else can take my experience and use it to make this top successfully.

There's more to come.  I have another top to share that was completed during the holidays, and I successfully muslined a dress from a back issue of Burda which you will see soon.  I'd also like to make a successful project from the January 2014 issue, so stay tuned for that.

Happy sewing!


westmoon said...

Very useful review, thank you! I too was really taken with the photo of that top but I couldn't imagine how it went from that line drawing to the top on the model. Like you, I am not entirely surprised to discover that it doesn't!

Anonymous said...

Oh Burda, still giving us poor designs every now and then. Sorry this didn't work for you. Lets hope thats all the 2014 wadders you have! Thanks for sharing.

Lovenicky said...

Too bad this didn't work out for you. The fabric looks lovely. Perhaps taking out the excess fabric from under the arms would help? e.g. instead of a straight seam from the waist to the end of the sleeves, use a curved seam that goes closer to your body? Just an idea!

Ladyjane said...

Hi, When I look at the original photo and the photo of you wearing it I wonder about a few things. If you made the fabric part below the elastic fit as tight as the one in the original photo and then pulled the elastic up above your waist so it sort of blousons you might get the same look. Also if you could lower the top edge at the center front it would give the illusion is a v-neck. I think the silver looks fine you just need a long dark stone necklace down the front. Good luck with it !

Shannon said...

Thanks for the great comments and suggestions, y'all! The idea of removing some extra fabric under the arms is intriguing. I could also let the shoulder seams out to lower the neck as it was originally drafted- giving that lower neckline. For now, I have hung this up in the closet. I'm going to let it "rest" for a bit and come back to it. I think I need time to stop thinking about it and come back later with a fresh perspective.