Sunday, January 16, 2011

Burda Style 01-2011-133- Done!

The knit dress from the plus section of the January Burda Style is done. And not a moment too soon.
I used a charcoal grey Ponte de Roma knit from Joann's and I cut a 44 from shoulder to hip and a 46 from the hip down. I should have graded down to a 42 through the bodice. It's a knit, after all, and the plus patterns seem to be drafted with a little extra ease. In any case, after making a muslin of the bodice, these are the adjustments I made:

1. Added 1.25" of length at the waist.
2. Made a petite adjustment above the bust by folding out 3/8".
3. Folded out 1/4" vertically from the side front bodice pieces and the back bodice pieces.
4. Made a swayback adjustment by shaving off 1/4" at the bottom of the back bodice, tapering to nothing at the sides.
5. Moved the CF fold in 1/8" and raised the neckline by adding 5/8" to the top of the CF piece.
6. Adjusted the waist and skirt pieces to match the adjustments to the bodice.

I wish I had added the sleeves to the muslin. There is a ridiculous amount of ease in the sleeve cap, so much so that I went back and checked to make sure I hadn't traced the wrong size. If I had known ahead of time, I could have adjusted. As it was, I had to shave off 1/2" from the top of the sleeve pieces after I had cut them. There was still a lot of ease, and it was a challenge to attach them, but it looks okay.

I did not follow the pattern instructions, but just sewed the pieces in the order that made the most sense. I sewed the sleeves in flat and stitched the side seams last so I could tweak the fit if needed.

The pattern went togther nicely (except for the sleeve issue) even if there were a lot of pieces- 14 to be exact. I had a hard time with the neckline. The corners were challenging to sew, and once the facing was stitched to the neck, it was very difficult to press. That's really more of an issue with the fabric than the pattern, though.
If I were to make this again, I would take the sleeves in slightly and shorten them a bit. I have very short T-rex arms and what looks like lovely 3/4 length sleeves on the model looks rather awkward on me.
I like the dress as is, but I'll be on the look-out for a cool belt to wear with it. I think it looks nice with the black tights, but a nice belt or some colorful jewelry would really help keep it from looking too drab.

Now that this dress is finished, I can get back to work on my Vintage Sewalong dress and I can get started on the flutter sleeve top from the same Burda Style issue. Happy Sewing!

13 comments:

Karin said...

What a flattering dress! It really shows off your hour glass figure. All those pattern pieces sound like a pain, but maybe they are the reason that the dress fits so well? My mom told me that "better" patterns have more pieces.

Shannon said...

What a lovely dress! I like how there are so many pattern pieces, allowing for many fitting opportunities.

Anita (Summer Gypsy) said...

Wow. 14 patterns pieces. I'm worn out just thinking of the tracing part. Your dress turned out beautiful. It fits you so well, is very flattering. Very nice job. Enjoy wearing it. You'll get lots of compliments.

Kyle said...

WOW Shannon it looks great! 14 pieces is a lot of work, but a huge payoff!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

You look amazing in this dress! And you made it in gray ~ the same shade I was thinking of...may have to rethink that now that I've seen yours! :) Thanks for all of the helpful sewing information. And again you look awesome!!!

sewing spots said...

Very flattering dress on you! Congrats on getting it done.

Kristine said...

Great dress, very flattering! I will be marking that page in that issue, thanks to you!

MushyWear said...

The overall look on this is very cool and sophisticated. I especially love the bodice with the square neckline. Another fantastic addition to your wardrobe!

gMarie said...

Oh it's lovely as are you. Great job! g

gwensews said...

That's a lot of pieces for a dress! It turned out very nice and looks terrific on you.

Caroline said...

Just discovered your blog. This dress is really lovely! And fits you beautifully. I'm looking forward to poking around your blog some more ...

a little sewing on the side said...

fantastic!

a little sewing on the side said...

Shannon, I had a question from a reader about wrinkles in the back of her garment. I was not sure what advice to give her because I have not experienced that problem, nor do I even notice it in other people.

Because I was already thinking about the question, I saw a difference between this and the red dress you just made.

I am having an ah-ha moment about how the petite pattern is drafted compared to the regular sized pattern.
Could you email me, alittle sewing gmail dot com?
I'd like to ask you a question. thanks so much and I love your blog!