Monday, May 4, 2015

Burda Style 06-2011-105

When the June issue of Burda Style arrived back in 2011 I remember being disappointed.  There wasn't much in it that interested me- nothing that I wanted to make.  It's funny how sometimes I come back to an issue that didn't inspire me at the time it was issued, but now I find hidden gems just waiting to be made.

Case in point was dress #105 which I ran across while surfing the Burda website looking for something else entirely.

I was intrigued by the unusual take on the shirt dress.  the crisp white linen and contrasting satin cuffs and hem band added to my interest.  I immediately went to my back issues and found the magazine.

Do you prefer the clear and concise?  Then you'll love this dress with it's straight cut and wide satin bands.  As a whimsical touch, the buttons continue along the neck edge.

I chose view B with it's ventless cuffs and top stitching on the yoke seams, which are the shoulder seams brought forward.  There are no darts in this design.  The bust fullness is caught into soft gathers at the yokes.  The button band goes all the way around the neck.  Really, it's just a simple button up shirt with a solid hem band at the bottom extending it into a dress.

Although I love the white linen version, I really didn't want a white dress.  I'm way too accident prone and I could just imagine dripping ketchup or barbecue sauce down the front!

The fabric I chose is a wine colored linen/rayon blend from Joann's.  It's not exactly a summer color, but it's pretty and I like it with my skin and hair.  I chose to use the same fabric throughout and not try to match satin for the cuffs and hem band.

The fabric was a dream to sew- soft but stable.  I washed and dried the daylights out of it in the hottest water and on the highest heat cycle, twice, to preshrink it and ensure that the finished dress would be wash and wear.  These photos were taken after a long day at work.  There are a few wrinkles, but not too bad.

I cut my "usual" Burda size- 42 shoulder, 44 bust, and 46 hip.  No grading was required because this dress was generously offered in sizes 38 to 46.  My adjustments were minimal- 1 3/8" of length added at the waist, 1 1/2" of length added right above the hem band, and a 1/2" FBA with the excess taken into the gathers at the yoke.  I made a muslin and the pattern, as drafted, ran short for my taste, hence the extra length added above the hem.  I also narrowed the shoulders by 1/4".

The V neckline is deep, but because of the way the shaped button bands are cut, it feels modest enough for me.  I wore this to work without a cami and felt fine all day.

The pattern is drafted well and all of the pieces go together perfectly.  It's a 2 dot pattern and a beginner could make this with careful attention to detail.  Attaching the neckband involves some convex curves sewn to some concave curves, so stay stitching, clipping, and careful pinning is required.

Although I like this dress, one is quite enough for me.  I could possibly see making the blouse version, which is just the dress minus the hem band, and with vents in the side seams.

This is a great pattern for a loose, comfortable, unique take on the shirt dress.  If you are looking for something a little different give this pattern a try.  And if you have any Burda back issues that didn't do anything for you at the time they came out, give them another look.  You never know when you might find something you like that you didn't notice before.


Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Shannon, I've seen this pattern on the Burda website and agree that it's a great take on the shirt dress! Love that you made yours in a solid color! This looks great on you! Lovely!

Anonymous said...

Terrific dress" I had the same reaction as you to this issue and dress when the magazine first came out. I'm delighted you've made it up and changed my mind about it!

Audrey said...

ooh This is a flattering take on a shirtdress. it is very pretty and that is a great color on you.