Burda Style 02-2012-131

Two dresses in one weekend.  Can you believe it?   In addition to the knit dress from the previous post, I also finished up dress #131 from the February issue of Burda Style.

This dress was featured in the plus section of the magazine, which was devoted to wedding dresses.  I liked the simple classic shape and the unique curved seaming.

 It's a variation on a princess seamed sheath:

The back seams are just as interesting as the front.  Here's a close-up of my side seams:

This was a pretty simple dress to make.  It was a 2.5 dot pattern with 6 pattern pieces, including facings.  I ended up not using the facings, so my dress only had 4 pieces to cut.

I traced a 44 and then graded the bodice down to a 42.  I made a 3/8" petite adjustment above the bust and added 1 and 5/8" of length to the waist (which changed the shape of my front seams quite a bit.)  I actually could have used a smidge more.  I think this pattern was designed for a short waisted woman.  Even the photo above looks short. 

I also raised the neckline and moved the shoulder straps in one whole inch.  You can read about my pattern adjustment in this post.  Because of all the changes to the bodice, I would have had to draft new facing pieces and I was just too lazy to do that.  So instead, I finished the neckline and armholes with bias binding.  It was quick, easy, and it looks great inside.
 

I also moved the side zipper to the center back.  I found an invisible zipper that just about matched my fabric, but hey- it's invisible, right?  I love the seaming in the back.  It's very flattering, although I think if I'd added that extra little bit of length, it would look better on me.  I think the unique seaming on this dress would make it a great candidate for color blocking.

My fabric is a stretch jaquard from Fashion Fabrics Club.  It has a really nice texture to it and a slight sheen as well.  I go back and forth on the color, though.  When I ordered online, I thought it would be more red.  It's really a weird shade of orange- not pink enough to be coral, but not "orange" enough to be true orange either.  I was thinking I didn't like it until I tried it on today with the turquoise shoes and jewelry.  Now it's kind of growing on me again.

In any case, it was easy to cut and sew, but it didn't want to press very well.  The back especially, doesn't look as crisp as I'd like.

Now that I'm liking the dress again, I think I will go ahead and try the matching jacket.  I traced it this weekend and I just need to throw a muslin together to check the fit.  This really needs something over it to make it work appropriate. 

In other sewing news, I made another muslin this weekend.  More on that later...