Burda Style 09-2011-131

The Flap Dress, also known as dress #131 from the September issue of Burda Style, is done. Finally:
Just to refresh my memory, since it seems like I've been working on this dress forever, this is the magazine photo:

And the technical drawing:

I'm no fashion model, but I'm pretty pleased with the way the dress turned out. (Not to mention pleased that it's done and out of my sewing room!)

The pattern is offered in sizes 38 through 46. I cut a 42 from shoulder to hip and a 44 from hip to hem. I used a stretch woven fabric, so it worked out fine. If I was going to make this out of something with no stretch I would have gone up one size.

The only fit adjustments I made (after two muslins) were to add one inch of length at the waist, and a petite adjustment above the bust, which I made by folding out 3/8" horizontally across the back bodice and the side front bodice. The fold was made right above the flap so that I didn't run into issues with proportion or with the flap piece fitting the front piece. I also took an extra 3/8" out of the sleeve cap (for a total of 3/4") because there was a ton of ease and I didn't want puckered sleeves.

I converted the V-neck in back to a regular, high round back. Without this adjustment, the dress would not stay up on my shoulders and it would be unwearable.

I also raised the neckline in front significantly, in order to be able to wear a bra, and so that I feel comfortable wearing the dress. The adjustment was easy. I just added the necessary amount to the triangle inset piece (actually a diamond since you fold it in half to self face it.)

The fabric I used is a hot pink, poly stretch crepe I ordered from Fashion Fabrics Club. It's nice and heavy, but drapes well and has just enough stretch to make the dress comfortable. It's a good thing I like it, too, since I also bought a piece of it in mustard...

Only the bodice is lined in this dress, and I used hot pink satin. I love the feel of a satin lining against my skin (and the color matched!) All other seams inside the dress are serged with red thread. I liked the red against the hot pink and it doesn't show, so I thought, what the heck?

The dress fastens with an invisible zipper at center back. I remembered to interface the back opening edges and the zipper went in pretty much perfectly on the first try.

I actually finished this dress last weekend, but my photographer was out of town on a school trip, and then we had rain, and then I had a bad hair day, and so on and so on. You know how it goes. So today, everything came together and it was time (way past time) for a photo shoot.

My teenage photographer actually does have an artistic streak, and he says my blog pictures need to be more interesting. So today he decided we should climb up a hill (with me in four inch heels of torture) to get some shots.

"Go stand by that farm implement," he says.

"This rusty old thing?" I ask.

Why, look. This grasshopper likes my dress!

Like I said, I'm pretty pleased with the dress. I'm just happy to have it done. It's a 2.5 dot pattern. Maybe they should up that to a 3 dot or even a 3.5 dot. It's not that hard, but there is some precise sewing involved to get the flap section done. The instructions are typical Burda instructions, which means that without photos, you really have to read them a couple of times, play around with the pattern pieces and then just basically do it your way. I never did figure out what they wanted me to do with the bottom point of the center front inset.

This is going to be a fun dress to wear, but I won't be making it again. One is enough. I do recommend the pattern if you like a sheath dress with a little something extra. This would make one heck of a party dress in the right fabric.

Happy sewing!