Saturday, September 25, 2010

Burda Style "Perfectly Sculpted" Skirt

I finished this skirt up last week ,but as usual, I had to wait for the perfect opportunity to take photos (available photographer and adequate light.)

This is the "Perfectly Sculpted" pencil skirt from the September issue of Burda Style (an issue that is quickly becoming one of my favorites.)


Here is what Burda had to say about it: "Instead of a waistband, three horizontal section seams curve around the top of this pencil skirt, giving it lovely shape and fit over the hips."

I love it shown here with the Ruffle Shoulder Blouse.

Here is the back. I can see that I have a few ripples, but that has to be due at least in part to the fact that my poly suiting fabric was almost impossible to press.

Here you can see the curved seams where they meet the side back seams- the only two vertical seams I might add. The pattern called for one vent below the zipper but I went ahead and added one on the left side, too. (Just ignore the chalk marks at the top of the vents- those will wash out.)

I really like the way this looks. The fit isn't perfect, but it'll do. The pattern only went up to a size 44 and I need a 46 to fit my hips. I graded the pattern up one size and hoped for the best. I really should have left the waist at the size 44, it's a tiny bit loose, but I didn't feel like trying to blend sizes with so many curved seams going on. I ended up taking the side back seams in about 1/2" on each side. If I make this again, and I might, I'll definitely go down to a 44 through the waist and high hip area.

I pretty much followed Burda's instructions. The only changes I made were to add some twill tape to the waist seam (the lining is sewn to the top of the skirt and understitched- there are no facings), and I added 1/4" elastic to the waist in the back between the vertical seams. It helps the skirt to stay in place since the waist is a little loose. If I had made the correct size, I wouldn't have had to do this.

Burda kindly included a separate lining pattern piece (I would never have made a lining with all those curved seams) and instead of sewing the darts that were marked, I converted them to pleats as was suggested in a recent Threads article about lining skirts. It worked out perfectly.

I would like to make this again in a more stable (and iron friendly) fabric. I think it might be fun to use a denim or twill and topstitch the unusual seams. I really like the look of the finished skirt, but I have to be honest, the side back seams are a tiny bit awkward to fit and to get into. I'm not used to zipping myself up behind my hip! And I have to use my mirror to make sure I've got my seams in the right place.
The curved seams are where all the shaping occurs. I found the top of my skirt to be very curvy, even in the belly area (lucky for me since I have a tummy!) I was actually quite surprised, because most of the Burda patterns I've made seem to have been drafted for someone with minimal curves. I definitely recommend making a muslin of this one.

I really like the similar dress pattern in the same issue. I'm toying with the idea of attempting to make it, but I'm not sure I want to go to all the trouble. I'll have to grade up 1 size on top and 2 on the bottom, and I'll have to convert from petite sizing to tall through the torso. That's a lot of work.

In other news, I got up this morning and found a cold wind blowing. Then I opened my email and found an ad for Bath and Bodyworks' new Christmas line. I guess it is definitely Fall now. So long summer. May we meet again...

11 comments:

Heather said...

That skirt is gorgeous! It looks beautiful on you! The waist detail is really cool.

gMarie said...

That skirt is fantastic. I love your style, you have inspired me more than once. Thank you. g

MushyWear said...

Your skirt turned out beautifully. I just made and posted this too! I feel like you, it's a great looking pencil skirt with some interesting design details. You also did a great job describing the skirt and construction techniques.

Venus de Hilo said...

Great skirt, and nice fit! Love the idea of doing it in twill or denim and top-stitching the curved seams.

Mommyof2girlz said...

Awesome skirt, looks fabulous on you. Loving the waist detail very cool!

Karin said...

You did a beautiful job on this skirt! It looks perfect! I'd like to see someone make the dress as well.

Linda said...

Love this skirt. Your review is about the third one I have read. I really need to get going on making mine. Very nice!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

I love this skirt too! It looks great on you.

gwensews said...

That's a very classy looking skirt. Nice fit. I really like the length. It's very flattering. And lady-like.

Debi said...

Fantastic skirt! Amazing fit. What a wonderful wardrobe classic!

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Oooh, what a showstopper! Thanks for making this one, it is high on my list.