This is Simplicity 2369, which I made once before back in the summer of knit dresses (2011.) I love that dress and I still wear it, but not as often as I'd like because the fit is off. I didn't know how to adjust for length through the torso without distorting the pleats and the sash at the waist so I just didn't do it. And I'm very sorry I didn't. When I wear that dress I'm constantly tugging it down because it feels like the tie is right up under my bust- not comfortable!
Since making the last dress, I thought I'd figured out a way to adjust the length without affecting the front wrap. So I decided to try it again. I even went so far as to buy the Amazing Fit version, S1653, with a new dress in mind. But when I opened the envelope and saw that the new version has a bust dart and a waist seam (hidden under the front wrap) I decided to just go with what already works, and I pulled 2369 out of the stash.
I used the same pattern pieces as before, the knee length skirt, and the short raglan sleeves, size 14 shoulders, and 16 from the bust down. (Last time I had to take it in down the sides, but this time I'm still working off the winter pudge and the 16 was fine.)
My idea for the length adjustment was to simply slash the pattern across the waist, but angle the cut up above the pleats and slide the pieces apart. Like so:
I added 1.5 inches of length at the waist, but because of the angled slash, it only added about 3/4" to the neckline edge. I was able to easily blend it in and it didn't lower the crossover point much, if at all. I moved the left side waist tie down 1.5" and the result is a wrap and tie that fits much more comfortably and looks much better without me having to constantly tug it into place.
My fabric is a poly knit from Joann. It's a geometric design on a mottled field of purple, maroon, and gold. It's a great weight and drapes beautifully. It was also pretty easy to cut and sew with a stretch needle. I used a straight stitch to baste my seams and then serged everything for security and neatness.
I had no issues until I went to hem the dress by machine. The hem wanted to roll out of place as it went under the presser foot and after 3 attempts complete with ripping out the stitches, I gave in and just hand hemmed. It didn't take long because the skirt isn't very full, although, in my opinion, it has just the right amount of flare to be sort of disco fabulous.
I love this dress and I know I'm going to wear it a lot this summer. I'll probably give this pattern a break for a while, but I may come back to it, or the 1653 version, because it has a long sleeve view which would be perfect for fall and winter.
In other news, I'm taking a much needed day off tomorrow. Hopefully I can get started on the Burda Asymmetrical Dress and at least get a muslin done. I also have some cute knits and a new dress pattern for the Princess. We'll see if the weekend goes as planned...