Sunday, June 12, 2011

Butterick 5464... Muslin

Last weekend I began working on Butterick 5464, one of the new patterns I picked up recently. Here's what I have so far:
I started with a quick and dirty muslin right out of the envelope using the size 14 cutting lines for the shoulders and size 16 from bust level down. It was HUGE. This is why I really don't like patterns that only provide drawings to give you an idea of what a finished garment is going to look like. The pattern envelope describes this top as "loose fitting" and my idea of loose fitting is pretty much exactly what is shown in the pattern illustration. Too bad the actual garment was huge and boxy with almost no shaping at all. The illustration appears to have some subtle waist shaping, and there is no representation of the back of the blouse at all.

The muslin looked okay, if a little large in front, but the back was an ugly, boxy mess. I basted in some darts and took the side seams in to the next smaller size and tried it again. It was better. I went back to the pattern and added a 1/2" FBA, did a 1/2" sway back adjustment, measured and drew the dart in on the back patern piece, and cut it out again using a size 14 easing out to a 16 at the hip.

I hoped the second version would be wearable, but unfortunately, I don't think it's going to be.

First of all, the fabric I chose, a small scale asian print cotton, is all wrong for this pattern. It would probably work fine if I hadn't added the ruffle, but it just doesn't have enough drape for the ruffle to hang correctly. And I don't know why I didn't think about it before hand, but I did not realize until I got the ruffle attached, that the wrong side of the fabric will show. I could actually have lived with that if the ruffle draped properly, but it doesn't.

But even if the ruffle worked, the back still has problems.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think I still need to remove a little length, and add a little width across the hips. My sway back adjustment actually took away hip width, which I added back to the sides. Maybe I need to add a bit more.

Any suggestions for fixing the back of this? I'll use this version to experiment on some more and then hopefully cut another one in a more suitable fabric. I've already spent enough time on this that I feel like I have to make it work. I can't let this stupid pattern get the better of me!


Karin said...

I also prefer patterns where the garment has been made up and you get to see it on a real person. I see what you mean about the shirt's short comings.

On the up side, you look like you have slimmed down some :-)

Belinda said...

Hi Shannon, I think if you add a bit at the side seams most of your pull lines will be eliminated. I would leave the length though. Its a good style for you.

Sheila said...

Pretty fabric, what if you reduce the darts, there by giving you more ease.

angie.a said...

Well you already know I have that back bubble on EVERYTHING I make, ;) So I'll wait and see what the experts say and then steal the solution for myself. ha.

Other than this color!~ And the ruffle is maybe a bit overwhelming at the chest, but it's lovely at the bottom half. Could be the fabric/how it's lying though.

sewing spots said...

Really cute style on you. Too bad about the fit, but it seems like you've solved nearly everything! Good luck with the back (sorry, I don't have any brilliant ideas!)

Rose said...

You may want to try taking length from the back between the waist and the bust (tapering it to get rid of the winkles). I can't see the front very well for the ruffle but it may need some length removed between the waist and bust also. Length may be need to added at the bottom since the length looks good on you. If that helps, see if there is more width needed at the hip to eliminate the diagonal winkles. I have similar back fit problems and that works for me. It's a nice style for you (in fabric that gives a better drape to the ruffles).